Problem Solved - Finally, Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job
The right type of coating is crucial. If you pick the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you may spend on your job. Too many perfectly great paint jobs deteriorate quickly because poor quality primer and paint were used.
A dependable guideline is to match the existing layer of paint. If you are painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You may have a variety of choices if the surface is uncoated, but you still need to consider weather, maintenance, and strength to find the best coating for the job.
Primers - What If You Could Start Painting in 1 Hour?
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the surface is protected and how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters almost as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you need to use a primer if you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more even. About the only time you don't need to prime is if you are recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To make sure of compatibility, choose something that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coating distributed by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to deal with reading the fine print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you will ever need and you may want help translating a few of the terms and specifications.
Primers form a solid foundation for the top coats by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top finish end up flaking off much sooner than you'll expect. While you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second layer of primer to ensure a level undercoat, but often one will do. The house pictured below is an example of a project where two coatings of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it an even base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand another coat of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his jobs last. In the event that you live near salt water, I would recommend that you consider doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might think that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of wood trim it always feels harsh. That's because primer causes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for the top. (Here's a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the top coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by reducing the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)
How to Prime Interior Wall Space and Ceilings
I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, such as the laundry room and shower, that need a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the house, although there are excellent latex primers that seal similarly as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new buildings have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.
Older houses require room-by-room decisions on what primer to make use of. If the residence does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the walls and keeps dampness from getting between the surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers might be the answer to priming damp rooms in the house. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, smoke, and tannin spots, and they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also works as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain an even sheen over primer. You could make sure compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
With regards to walls, understand that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, specially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are many primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coating and finish that you've planned.
Drywall is a lot less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any kind of top coating, but old habits are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Blended with primer, joint compound also helps level over any sanding markings or roughness.
Amazing Primers For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should consider the nature and condition of the surface, the kind of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the type of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Most often I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bathing rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all over the wood. When you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect almost all of the wood trim from water. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your job has many different variables
Primers For Exterior Applications
Even though I prefer latex paint for the exterior, I still would rather use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the residence has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which usually means that it is new), particularly if I had access to the siding and trim before it is attached to the building. It's always best to seal all over the wood (however, not the ends) to give each piece its own vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long period, even if the lumber has air-dried for a few months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a light detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are rather porous, so you may need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top layers. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special wood cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. If the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially developed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top layer, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Primers For Metals Applications
Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough attachment with the area. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to eliminate, and could need more than simply thinner. Consult with your paint store if you wish to be certain a primer will work on new galvanized metallic surfaces.
There are primers for each and every type of metal. Ferrous metals, made of iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've got success using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be coated with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized material. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.
As with any top coat, the more time the primer is able to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're applied, for better or for worse. A clean surface is particularly important when you use an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies recommend against using almost any solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.
An old technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the surface with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metal material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is helpful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be used to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.
Primers For Masonry Applications
Be it inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually water, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 3 months before you prime and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be coated on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is actually tinted mortar and packed with lime, is an ideal surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's provided for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coating, but it's important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for many masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the drying time of concrete. You are able to still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that could be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, specially when you blend the acid with water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add normal water to acid it'll splash and burn anything it contacts. And mix it in the correct ratio, usually 1:3. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. You need to keep them well managed and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete floor surfaces in really poor shape should be sandblasted, or you can use a fresh system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good shape, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I recommend a cement stain provided by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Cement stain penetrates and seals without requiring scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top covering like latex.
Older, pre-painted concrete floors need to be repainted with a similar top coating, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coat is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top coating requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
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